Sparkling Holiday Punch

Here come the holidays. People will be gathering with friends and families, and they’re going to be thirsty. Enter punch, the fruity, colorful beverage ladled out of a big bowl or pot. Here are a few points about punch and a recipe for your holiday get-togethers.

• The drink’s name may have come from the Indian word paantsch (meaning “five”.) This particular recipe originated in India and was taken to England by the East India Company in the late 1600s.was usually made with five ingredients: an alcoholic beverage, lemon or lime juice, sugar, spices, and water.

• However, Englanders had already been drinking their own type of punch for 400 years:  the ancient wassail, a hot drink made with ale, wine, or brandy, mulled cider, and spices.   

• “Punch” the name may also have been derived from the Old French poinchon to the Middle English puncheon for a large cask, around 100 gallons, that carries liquids or other materials.

• A popular punch made in the South of the United States is sweet bourbon punch made with sweet tea, bourbon, and citrus juices, especially during the Kentucky Derby.

• Mexican ponche is made with prunes, pears, star anise, dried hibiscus, and tejocotes, a crabapple-like fruit from the hawthorn tree and served warm for the Christmas season.

• “Burnt punch,” Feuerzangenbowle (or “fire tongs punch,”) is a German New Year’s Eve favorite. A giant sugar cube is placed in a punch bowl, and red wine and flaming rum are poured over it.

Recipe for Sparkling Holiday Punch

40 ounces of cranberry juice (not cranberry juice cocktail, but 100% cranberry blended with fruit juice)

1 bottle each of tonic water and sparkling lemonade (or two bottles of dry sparkling wine—Prosecco, Cava)

1 bottle of sparkling apple juice

12-ounce can of ginger ale

2 oranges, cut into thin slices

1 cup of fresh cranberries

Enough ice cubes to fill half of the punch bowl

To Make:  Pour ice into punch bowl to half full. Make sure all liquid ingredients are chilled. Pour all liquids over the ice and stir gently. Add orange slices and cranberries and ladle into cups. [Note: if making the alcoholic version, 1 ½ cups of dark rum or brandy can be added.]

Wine Tasting: Ryan William Vineyard

Doing something a little different--a video of our tasting at Finger Lakes winery Ryan William Vineyard. Perched on a southeast hill overlooking Seneca Lake, the atmosphere reminds me of a couple of Paso Robles (California) tasting rooms.

Producing approximately 3,000 cases annually, their 10 varietals are 100 percent estate grown and responsibly farmed: Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Syrah.

**Note: regarding the question in the video about French vs. American oak barrels, I knew that the flavor profiles were different for each, but I wasn’t sure what the flavors were. First, both are made from various species of white oak. In a nutshell, (no pun intended,) French oak contributes a more savory profile—reminiscent of wood, nuts, coffee/cocoa, pepper. American oak is sweeter and more vegetal with more notes of lighter flavors—vanilla, coconut, dill, brown sugar. Other factors also affect the wine: size of the barrel (smaller equals more flavors,) type of white oak and its terrior, and toast, or amount of char on the barrels.

These are the tasting notes for the “Red Flight:”

• 2016 Pinot Noir: smooth, ruby color, medium body, cherries, red berries, some spice to the finish, fruit forward—not as earthy as the classic Burgundy I expected, but nice, off dry.

• 2016 Merlot: sweeter, more fruit—plums, more spice, licorice on the finish, and richer than the Pinot Noir; liked this very much.

• 2018 Cabernet Franc: some initial earthier elements—tobacco or leather?, rich plum to cherry, more layers/complexity for sitting and sipping, finishes with light wood notes. *My fave, bought two bottles.

• NV Barn Red: blend of Cab Franc and Merlot that is a better than average everyday wine, fruity, crowd-pleaser red that would be great with burgers and Italian sausages on the grill.

• Gruner Veltliner: no tasting notes on this. They gave us complimentary tastes of the GV, but I’ve never been a fan of the varietal anyway, and I’d just tasted four reds, so I’m sure my palate wasn’t optimum. I didn’t think I could be fair.

Friendly people, excellent cheddar chive biscuits, and quality crafted wine. Looking forward to returning for a Friday lunch.

When in Apple Country, Drink Cider--Within a 45 Minute Drive of ROC

No one is sure when or where it began or who discovered that fermenting apple juice was delicious, but 3,000 years ago there were apple trees along the Nile River, and the Egyptians were notable beer and wine drinkers. After the Romans found cider in Britain in 55 BC, large scale production really took off.

In early America it was the drink of choice. Benjamin Franklin said, “It’s indeed bad to eat apples; it’s better to turn them all into cider.” William Henry Harrison won the 1840 presidential election as the “Log Cabin and Hard Cider Candidate,” and gave out free cider to his supporters. John Adams started his day with a tankard of cider and lived to be 90 years old.

Yes, there are some health benefits to drinking cider regularly, though, at 3 to 12 percent alcohol, drinking a daily breakfast tankard isn’t recommended in this article. All real cider, hard and not, is produced by crushing whole apples. It contains lots of Vitamin C for the immune system and more antioxidants than tomatoes or green or black tea to fight free radicals. It’s 100 percent juice, unlike processed apple juice at the grocery store; it has no fat or gluten; it has no cholesterol and, in fact, contains pectin which reduces cholesterol. There is no added sugar in real cider, but there is a substantial amount of natural sugar, and one 8-ounce glass is about 110 calories.

Ancient ciders were made with crabapples making them tart and bittersweet. As exploration and trade ensued across Europe and parts east, more common, sweeter apple varieties were shared, cultivated, and utilized to produce this popular alcoholic beverage. Today, with 7,500 varieties of apples available, new generations of family farmers have rediscovered heirloom and cider apples and are also making hard cider from culinary apples like Golden Delicious and Gala.

Rochester is surrounded by multi-generational fruit farms, and many specialize in apples. If they don’t make their own cider, they likely sell to people who do make it, creating opportunities all around us to drink local, smaller production ciders. I recently visited some cideries within a 45-minute drive of the South Wedge and tasted some of their specialties.

For 100 years Schutt’s Apple Mill, 1063 Plank Rd., has been growing apples in Webster. Known for its sweet, fresh-pressed cider, fourth-generation great-grandson Evan Schutt began making hard cider two years ago. Their store has a new, expanded tasting room that also carries other local ciders to try. Schutt’s own Fried Cake cider is “fall” in a glass with familiar seasonal spices over apples and a fried cake flavor finish. This is sweet—a dessert or holiday cider for grown-ups—and made with Ida Reds, Empire, and Rome apples.  Schutt’s more traditional offering is Great Grandpa’s Grog “Relic.” It’s light and refreshing with an off-dry finish. Made from Crispin and Pinata apples, the flavors are more subtle, balanced, and classic, slightly tart.

Also east of Rochester, in Williamson, Rootstock Ciderworks, 3274 Eddy Rd., was founded by David DeFisher in 2012. Rootstock is part of DeFisher Fruit Farms, which harvests 500 acres of orchards and is in its fifth generation of family farmers. The cidery uses all-natural local ingredients and is the first post-Prohibition farmstead cidery in the region. The tasting room is beautiful with an indoor tasting bar and outdoor seating. The 2017 Heritage, made from Rhode Island Greening apples, is fresh with a clear apple taste, a hint of pear, and a slight floral finish. The 2016 Legend Barrel-Aged is made from a blend of heirloom apples and aged for at least a year in French and American oak barrels. It’s whiskey-like in its complexity and character: apples with some dark spice and leather, a fall and winter sipper. The 2017 Rose is a lovely blend of Rhode Island Greening and Cortland apples and the Austrian Blaufrankisch grape (sourced from Leonard Oakes Winery.) Slightly effervescent, it’s wine-like with flavors of strawberry, red berries, and melon with a dry finish.

On the west side of Rochester, Blue Barn Cidery, 928 Manitou Rd. in Hilton, was established in 2017, but is part of a 200-year old family farm business currently known as Green Acres and West Wind Fruit Farms. The facility itself, the Blue Barn, is marketed for weddings and events. On the Sunday I was there, at least three parties were going on simultaneously. There is a large tasting bar that also offers other beverages from area wineries and breweries. I tasted three Blue Barn ciders. The Westcider, a blend of six apples, had a very slight floral note to it, but was otherwise not distinctive. The Jostaberry Jam, which the server said was the most popular cider, was sweet with currant flavors and reminded me of red fruit punch. The Pop the Bubbly cider was supposed to be slightly effervescent and have a “Champagne” quality. Unfortunately, this taster may have been open too long because it was flat and had an unpleasant minerality. Perhaps they are still experimenting with flavors and fermenting, but, overall, these samples lacked the complexity of many other ciders that I’ve tried. 

All three cideries produce all-natural beverages using home-grown and local-grown ingredients, including other fruits from their orchards and farms. For more information, visit their Facebook pages or websites: www.schuttsapplemill.com, www.rootstockciderworks.com,  and www.bluebarncidery.com.

This article appears in the October/November 2019 issue of The WEDGE newspaper

The New Old Sparkling Wine: Petillant Naturel

Red Tail Ridge vineyards overlooking Seneca Lake. The winery is sustainably farmed and was New York’s first LEED Gold Certified winery.

This article was published in The Wedge Newspaper, February-March 2019 issue.

There is a genre of “natural” wines. Not only are the farms (vineyards and wineries) usually organic, sustainable, or biodynamic, but the methods in which their wines are produced are traditional with little intervention by the winemaker.

 While this movement is becoming trendy, the “natural wine movement” began in France about 40 years ago as a protest of sorts to modern, mass-produced, industrialized wines with homogenized flavors. Old World winemakers thought that grapes were being manipulated for the popular palate rather than allowing the grape’s true character to develop in the barrel and in the bottle. Of course, the techniques and methods of natural wine weren’t new 40 years ago, either, having been used and finessed over centuries of winemaking prior to that.

If a bottle is labeled “unfiltered,” “unfined,” “natural,” or “minimal intervention,” it is probably considered a natural wine. There is no formal designation or certification as there is with organic or biodynamic products, or as with the farm produce designation “Certified Naturally Grown.” The general criteria followed by wine organizations and producers include: grapes are hand-picked from low-yield vineyards; there are no additives---no sugar, no cultured yeasts, no artificial flavors or colors; minimal or no filtration; no added sulfites (or only a minute amount) as a preservative. 

Because of the hands-off techniques involved, the wines often look different from the other wines on the shelf. They may be cloudy and have sediment resting at the bottom. In tasting, natural wines often have yeasty, earthy or funky flavors because of the natural elements like sediment still present in the bottle.

One type of natural wine is petillant naturel, or “pet nat.” These are interesting sparkling wines produced in the methode ancestrale which pre-dates methode champenoise, the most common technique for making sparkling wine. In methode champenoise additional yeast and sugar are added to wine in the bottle for a second fermentation that produces bubbles (carbon dioxide.) Pet nat wines are bottled before the first fermentation is complete, and no additional yeast or sugar is added. The CO2 by-product remains in the bottle and creates bubbles which also vary in intensity, but are softer on the palate than methode Champenoise bubbles. Pet nats are generally low-alcohol, easy to drink, and can be red, white, or rose.

Pet nats are intriguing because each bottle can develop in its own way, even those bottled at the same time. It is not unusual for flavors, bubbles, and texture to vary with factors like temperature, amount of yeast, and aging. Winemakers generally like the challenge of bringing out grape characteristics with minimal intervention, leaving the primary juice and indigenous yeast to make its own magic.

 We recently visited the Finger Lakes to taste some of these original effervescent wines. 

Red Tail Ridge Winery (www.redtailridgewinery.com) on Seneca Lake has produced seven vintages of Petillant Naturel Riesling. A natural wine making process is a logical option for New York’s first Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Gold Certified winery. Red Tail Ridge farms sustainably, controls pests humanely, and keeps production low to focus on quality.

For winery co-owner and winemaker Nancy Irelan, a self-proclaimed “bubbles fanatic,” pet nat wine is an “approachable sparkling wine with a shorter time in production and a friendly price point” encouraging and allowing people to drink sparkling wine more often than special occasions.

 Their 2017 Peillant Naturel Riesling was on the tasting bar. With a little cloudiness and visible sediment, it’s light and refreshing. It’s citrusy, with grapefruit and lemon flavors, then a strawberry finish. Also available is Red Tail Ridge’s 2018 Pinot Noir Rose Petillant Naturel.

Natural wines are part of Barry Family Cellars’ (www.barryfamilywines.com) philosophy and style. Located in Burdett a few miles from the east shore of Seneca Lake, they purchase grapes locally and produce small batches with “minimal intervention” to “showcase individual vineyards.” Many of their wines are also unfined and unfiltered. Winemaker Ian Barry says the traditional roots of methode ancestrale appeals to him. We tasted four that he has produced.

The first was Fossil & Till Riesling 2017 Petillant Naturel, a limited edition, special project for Barry. Light and refreshing, there was a slight herbal quality with the citrusy flavors. The second wine was their latest pet nat, the 2018 Cayuga “Pet Gnat” Petillant Naturel. This was an opportunity to taste a very young wine that is still fermenting. Cayuga is a white hybrid created at Cornell University, and these grapes in particular were certified organic. At this stage, as expected, it was a bit heavier with yeasty flavors. It will be interesting to see what flavors emerge as this continues aging.

We tried the Pinot Noir Rose “Pet Gnat” 2017 Petillant Naturel after that. This was a bit richer with cranberry flavors, and I tasted a floral note of roses. The last wine was the Leon Millot 2018 “Pet Gnat” Petillant Naturel. The red grape is a French hybrid, and I picked up strawberry flavors, though as it develops, flavors could become more cherry and spice.

Rustic pet nats offer winemakers like Barry the opportunity to hone the most ancient skills using grapes and time and to give modern palates a change from the mainstream, a challenging but satisfying process.

“It was something new and fun to try,” Barry says. “I thought it would be fun to produce a history lesson in a bottle.”  

Summer Reds to Help You Chill

Thoughts of quenching summer heat are usually followed by thoughts of Pinot Grigio, Chablis, or a light sparkling wine. Our wine group gathered to taste four reds perfect for picnics: Pinot Noir, Garnacha, Barbera d’ Asti, and Sangria.   

Pinot Noir has different styles ranging from light-bodied to rich and earthy. One of my favorites in Oregon was a small production Pinot that poured almost like a rose out of the bottle, then became darker and more complex as it sat. Pinot Noir is an ancient grape, with known references dating to the first century. It’s a tricky grape to grow and likes cooler temperatures, such as the Burgundy region of France and the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Many California Pinots tend to be fruitier than their Burgundy counterparts because of the warmer growing temperatures.

For summer pairings, salmon is a classic with Pinot Noir and is especially good when the wine has some oak. Cherries and strawberries are also good with Pinot, and I paired our tasting bottle, Estancia Stonewall Vineyard (California) with fresh cherries and goat cheese with honey. Tasters found this wine smooth and “plummy” with a little chamomile on the nose and just a bit of oak.

Garnacha, or Grenache, also has a range of styles that could span the seasons. It’s one of the most widely grown grapes in the world but prefers dry, hot climates like Spain, southern France, and parts of Australia and California. Its most notable flavors are raspberries and strawberries, but with finesse, the wine can develop more complexity, richer layers, and darker flavors.

Our tasting group’s Garnacha, Honoro Vera, was a lighter Spanish red with black pepper on the nose and flavors of plum and cherry. Good with charcuterie and barbequed pork, I served this Garnacha with jamon (a cured Spanish ham, like prosciutto) and Manchego cheese.  

Barbera d’ Asti is a drier medium-bodied red, which, per regulation, must have at least 12.5 percent alcohol. The Piemonte region of Italy is believed to be where the grape originated, probably around 1200, and the Barbera grape is grown predominantly in Italy still, though other countries have been adding it to their production. California has some nice Barbera wines.

The Araldica Albera Barbera d’ Asti that we tasted had a toast aroma and smooth, plum and blackberry flavors with some spice and a dry (“like vermouth”) finish. Tasters did prefer this wine with the salt and pepper cashews and the salmon dip. This is another good wine for charcuterie and cheeses and for pizza and pasta with red sauce.

A favorite summer refresher, Sangria is a blend of wine (usually red,) fruit juice, liqueur, and fresh fruits. It’s served cold from a pitcher or punch bowl and is light and easy to drink. Depending on the type of wine used, it can be dry or sweet, but can always be blended to taste. Sangria’s origins are in Spain around 300 years ago. It’s a great picnic wine drink that pairs well with casual foods like burgers, baked beans, and pasta salads.

For our tasting, I used Ed Hardy’s Red Sangria, a premixed red wine blend, and I added peach schnapps, blueberries and strawberries. I served it with watermelon slices, chocolate dipped shortbread cookies, and a Pinot Noir and fruit granita.

To keep the Sangria cold without watering it down, fill suitably sized plastic storage containers with one part water and two parts wine, add fruit and freeze completely. Place the blocks in the pitcher or punch bowl when mixing up the Sangria.

So red wine lovers, take heart and save your Syrah for cozy fall days. There are some lighter-bodied reds that refresh and fit right in with summer fare.

Article and all photos by Glynis Valenti

Pairing Wine with Fall Flavors

This article was published in The WEDGE Newspaper, October/November 2017. 

Fall conjures up shorter days, cooler temps, and comfort food. Flavors transition from light and fresh salads, chicken, and berries to savory spices, baked pies, and buttery squashes. Remarkably, some of the summer’s favorite wines transition well into this season. Here are some popular tastes of fall and the wines that will give them more dimension.

Apples are synonymous with autumn and range from crisp and tart to sweet and juicy. Enter Chardonnay, a wine that has been vilified because of its popularity two decades ago. It’s incredibly versatile, though, and has its own range of flavors from tropical and citrus to buttery. Chardonnay is a French grape that produces white Burgundy and Champagne—two very different wines. People who don’t like the traditional oak and butter style of Burgundy have choices in varying degrees.

Naked, or unoaked, Chardonnay can be as crisp as fresh apples and often have a hint of apple flavor. Try unoaked from California, Oregon, or Washington for more of the apple coming through. Those from Australia and Chile may have more of the pineapple, citrus, and peach flavors.

Serving baked apples with cinnamon? Butternut squash with apples and maple syrup? Or apple dumplings with vanilla ice cream? A buttery Chardonnay with oak would be an excellent match, for instance Bread and Butter, Kendall Jackson, and Franciscan from California. Lightly-oaked Chards are also available from Chateau Ste. Michelle, Sonoma-Cutrer, and Rutherford Ranch.

Chardonnay sparkling wines, i.e. Champagne and Blanc de Blancs, will be drier and pair well with many apple dishes, as well as cheeses.

When it comes to squash, there is a range of wine choices, depending on the squash and how it’s served. A buttery Chardonnay would work with butternut squash, but, because of its ginger, floral, and herbal qualities, Gewurztraminer may be what you’re seeking.

This white wine originated in Germany, but more is grown in France and the United States, including in New York state, than in Germany now.  The nose generally has a distinctive rose-but-sweeter aroma, or lychee fruit. They may have a sweeter taste, but are low in acid and sugar, with flavors or aromas of red grapefruit, honey, pineapple, apricot, and spices. A dry or off-dry Gewurztraminer can enhance zucchini with herbs or balance spaghetti squash with chunky marinara sauce.

Earthy mushrooms in soups and stews and Thanksgiving dressings are complemented by the slight earthiness and cherry or tobacco notes of a Pinot Noir. Generally medium-bodied, Pinot Noir is drinkable all year, but is a nice transition from light, summery wines to the heavier Cabernet Sauvignons and Zinfandels of winter.  The wine also pairs well with foods like roast pork, wild rice with mushrooms, and dishes with truffles. 

France is the leading producer of Pinot Noir, most notably in the Burgundy region, the home of some of the most expensive wines in the world. The French style has more of the earthy aromas, floral qualities, and cherries considered the classic red Burgundy. In the United States, California and Oregon are the major Pinot Noir producers, though New York wineries are also working with this tricky varietal. Oregon Pinots are closer to the French style in part because of the cooler climate, typically with flavors of cherries, truffles, and tobacco, spice or leather. California Pinots are more fruit forward with flavors of cherries, raspberries, spice, and caramel.

One of fall’s most popular flavors of late is pumpkin spice. This flavor is made up of several other flavors combined: usually pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, and allspice. As it happens, all of the wines noted above would pair with pumpkin spice, depending on the dish. If the food is prevalent with pumpkin, a buttery Chardonnay would be a good option. If ginger is strong, an oaked Chardonnay or a Gewurztraminer may work well. Gewurztraminer, Champagne, or Pinot Noir will pair nicely with dishes where cinnamon or allspice come through.

If planning a special dinner, do a trial run with a couple bottles of wine to see which works better with the dish. If unsure, the wine shop should have some suggestions based on the types of wine that you normally drink.  

Article and all photos by Glynis Valenti

A Visit to the Lake Ontario Wine Trail

This article was originally published in the August/September 2017 issue of THE WEDGE newspaper

Feel like getting out of the city for a day? The Lake Ontario Wine Trail (lakeontariowinetrail.com) has wineries, cideries, a distillery, shopping, and dining without the traffic in the Finger Lakes. Stops span three counties, but the trail is a close and easy drive through orchard country.

Joined by friends Diane and Bill from Walworth, we headed for a couple of new stops and revisited others along the trail.

Since they live off of Route 441, our first stop was JD Wine Cellars (jdwinecellars.com) at Long Acre Farm in Macedon. Owner Joan Allen told us that the farm began with her husband Doug’s grandfather, a traditional farmer in the 1920s, with dairy cows and standard produce. His son moved away from the dairy farming to focus on cash crops like corn.

Today Long Acre Farm is a popular family-friendly destination with the farm market, ice cream stand, children’s educational and play activities, hosting weddings, live music events, and new food menu. According to Joan, a fourth generation is coming on deck with new wine and food experiences.

Joan and Doug opted to add grape vines to their fruits and vegetables repertoire in 2010. The results have been tasty and award-winning.

We began our tasting with the Dry-Riesling with flavors of citrus, light apple, and lime. Next we tried Traminette with crisp, lime flavors and floral qualities which would be good with herbed chicken.  The Trilogy is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot that is smooth, slightly tart and has a hint of black pepper. Cranberry Riff is a 100 percent cranberry wine that tastes like cranberry juice with a kick and would be an excellent holiday wine for sipping or punches. JD Wine Cellars expects to release three new wines in the coming weeks.

Our second stop was the Old Goat Cidery (see their Facebook page,) which opened in June, at the Apple Shed Farm Market in Newark. Since 1907 Maple Ridge Farm has produced fruits and vegetables. Three generations later, in 1973, Gary Wells and wife Barb put up the landmark Apple Shed and cider mill. Now their son Matt and his wife Jessica are at the helm of the new cidery, and Gary is master cider maker. With 30 varieties of apples grown on the farm, flavor and combination prospects are exciting.

The day we visited, five ciders were on the tasting menu. Old Goat’s Heritage is a dry cider made from heirloom apples with just a hint of sweet flavor that would be good with a fish fry, a pasta salad, or a Waldorf salad. Bearded Old Goat, a gluten-free cider made with New York cascade hops, is off-dry with floral qualities. Macintosh apples blended with New England cranberries give Berry Old Goat its combination of sweet and tart flavors and pink color. Gary blends cider with New York apple blossom honey to make Sweet Mama Goat, his personal favorite. The last offering, Old Goat’s In-Law is a very limited batch cider in which Golden Delicious sweet cider from the Apple Shed ferments in oak bourbon barrels, semi-sweet, a nice sipper with flavors of apple, wood, caramel, and fall swirling in the glass.

Jessica noted that the cider bar itself is a piece of farm history, made from barn planks and old apple cider presses. The stain on the wood is, of course, apple cider.

Joan Allen welcomes visitors to JD Wine Cellars for tastings of their award-winning wines. 

Colloca Estate Winery (colloca.com) in Fair Haven was the relative new-comer on the trail. Dr. Christopher Colloca began purchasing parcels of Lake Ontario acreage in 2008 where he has planted Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. His Sicilian great-grandfather and grandfather made wine in their basements. Driving back and forth to college in the Finger Lakes and discussions with his older brother sparked Dr. Colloca’s interest in the wine industry. He began pulling pieces together for his own family winery as he traveled throughout the world for his chiropractic business.

Eventually connections in Australia enabled him to source and bottle bolder, warm-weather reds there under the Colloca Estate label and ship them to his New York tasting room. Today his initial 12-acre plot has grown to more than 100 acres, and he is continually expanding the services and attractions. There is a large tasting room, store and an outdoor barbeque area. The winery also hosts estate tours, several festivals, live music, weddings and corporate events.

Tastings on this day included a Dry Riesling with hints of lemon followed by the medium-bodied Riesling, a 2015 Double-Gold winner in a Finger Lakes competition. We tasted an estate Chardonnay that starts with crisp apple flavors and softens on the finish. For reds, we tried a classic Pinot Noir, with light spice and flavors of cherries and the Australian Old Vine Grenache that was smooth with lots of red berries, light spice, and slightly sweeter than expected.

All three stops on the Lake Ontario Wine Trail offered some sort of food menu, whether for lunches, dinners, or special events. We opted for the newly-renovated Mill Street Tavern in Sodus for lunch and,  since we were making a day of it, Dockers in North Rose on Sodus Bay for dinner. Mill Street Tavern serves up tasty burgers and sandwiches and had a full house for lunch. Dockers’ menu was Italian-American with generous portions and a choice of indoor or outdoor seating with views of the marina and bay.

There are other wineries to try, as well as antique shops and farm markets along the trail, so leaving in the morning and returning after dinner offers a lot of options for pacing and spending the day. The Lake Ontario Wine Trail and many of the wineries host special events throughout the year, which are posted on individual websites and Facebook pages.

Article and all photos by Glynis Valenti

Earth Day: How to Read Eco-Wine Labels (It's not just about "organic")

(This article was published in the April/May issue of The WEDGE Newspaper. Check out the rest of the paper online by clicking here)

Many consumers are settling into healthier everyday food choices. Grocery stores and farmers markets have obliged this trend by carrying organic products. Likewise, more wine shops are offering organic options. Knowing the terminology and some background is helpful when reading the labels.

Organic is actually a stringent farming system that reduces or eliminates chemicals and man-made additives. The certification process is time consuming and expensive for farmers, so it takes real dedication and commitment to ecology and health.

While many European producers have been farming organically for centuries, wineries in the United States have taken greater interest in these traditional methods during the last three decades. To be labeled organic, the grapes must be organically grown and processed at a certified organic winery, and no sulfites may be added as preservatives. Wine may still contain naturally produced sulfites as a by-product of fermentation. Because of reduced sulfites, however, these wines do not store as well and should be drunk within a couple of days of opening.

Phrases and terms on labels include:

• 100% Organic: Everything touching the wine from the seeds to the final bottling must be organic.
• Made with Organic Grapes: A limited amount of sulfur dioxide (sulfites) may be added to certified organic grapes processed at a certified organic winery.
• EU Organic: Similar to the USDA Certified Organic designation, but for European organically grown grapes, only organic additives allowed, non-GMO, and a slightly higher sulfite allowance than the US.
• Sulfites: Occur naturally during fermentation and act as a preservative in the bottle.  A small percentage of people are allergic, but a greater number are “sensitive” and experience headaches or stuffiness while breathing when exposed to them.

Though many wineries today use organic farming practices and processes, most opt not to go through the certification process. Finger Lakes winery Four Chimney Winery was the first certified organic winery in North America, established in 1980. Here are a few other eco-conscious wine producers to try from the Finger Lakes and Niagara regions: Silver Thread (organic;) Red Tail Ridge Winery (sustainable, first certified LEED gold winery;) Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard (sustainable, no herbicides or chemical fertilizers;) Arrowhead Springs Vineyards (sustainable.)

Nelson Habecker, of East Avenue Liquor, has a selection predominantly from a California distributor that sells exclusively organics. What should customers know about organic wines?

“Organic wines contain no detectable sulfites,” says Habecker. “Some people are sensitive to sulfites, so an organic wine is usually a more pleasant selection for them.”

These terms may also appear on wine labels, and various regions throughout the world have their own “stamps” verifying sustainability and practices.

• Salmon Safe: A certification indicating a vineyard or winery that plants trees along streams, plants cover crops to control run-off and uses natural pest and weed control in order to protect or restore salmon habitats. This designation is found particularly on wine labels from Pacific Northwest wineries.  
• Biodynamic: Based on the work of Austrian scientist, philosopher and mystic Rudolf Steiner, this is an entirely holistic approach to agriculture. The farm is treated as its own eco-system where everything is internal and nurtures the whole, striving for balance. For example, compost is mixed in the soil, enhancing the crops, which feed the animals that create more manure, etc. In addition, crops are planted and fertilized in accordance with seasons and moon phases, working with the earth’s natural rhythms. Look for the “Demeter” insignia on biodynamic products.
• Sustainable: Eco-conscious farming where the intent and practice moves toward the organic, but with the freedom to use chemicals or conventional procedures if needed. It is generally unregulated, but there are certification programs that may appear on labels. These include SIP (Sustainable in Practice;) Certified California Sustainable; Environmental Management System; LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology.)

A closer look at wine labels can enhance a healthy lifestyle. Check with local wine merchants for their selections and recommendations.

Article and all photos by Glynis Valenti

A Wine for Comfort Foods

It has been way too long since I've written for this site. There has been much going on, and I'm embarking on some new adventures, too--including a new "wine club!" I am currently writing a wine column for Rochester South Wedge newspaper, The WEDGE. Since its circulation is local, I'll post articles here. The paper is available online, though, at www.swpc.org. 

The calendar says "March," but the temperatures are in the teens, and there is a winter storm warning in effect for Tuesday and Wednesday this week. Still plenty of time for hot soups, mac and cheese, meatloaf, and other comfort favorites. If you are looking for an all-around everyday, easy-going, "comfortable" wine, keep reading.

First, there are no culinary police ticketing for having white wine with spaghetti and meatballs, but thoughtful wine and food combinations can complement favorable flavors and elevate the dining experience even if it’s served on TV trays after work.

Rochester winters mean comfort food—usually “stick-to-your-ribs” dishes, served hot, with an element of nostalgia that brings back fond memories or makes one feel better. Perennial favorites include chicken soup, pot pies, meatloaf and mashed potatoes, stews, macaroni and cheese, corned beef with cabbage, and grilled cheese sandwiches. One red wine pairs well with several of these dishes and is inexpensive enough to drink with everyday fare: Beaujolais- Villages.

Many people, thanks to good marketing in the 1980s, associate Beaujolais with Beaujolais Nouveau, a light-bodied, fruity wine drunk within a few weeks of harvest that kicks off the holiday season. However, Beaujolais, a region in eastern France south of Burgundy, west of the Cotes du Rhone, and north of the city of Lyon has been producing a wider range of better quality wines for centuries.

Around 98 percent of grapes planted in Beaujolais are Gamay noir. Research indicates that this Gamay—because there are many different varieties planted throughout the world--is probably a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais, an ancient grape the Romans brought to the area 2000 years ago. The Romans were the first to cultivate vineyards here, and during the Middle Ages Benedictine monks tended the vines.

Wines created with this dark red grape are fruit forward with low to moderate acidity and moderate tannins. Red berries are present on the nose, and flavors include tart cherry, raspberry, and cranberry, but also, depending on what area of the Beaujolais region the grapes are grown, there may be flavors of violet, earth, or smoke. It should be served slightly chilled, around 57 degrees, and drunk within two to three years of bottling.  

There are Cru Beaujolais wines that are fuller-bodied and have individual characteristics stemming from terroir. These can be difficult to find and more expensive, upwards of $20 per bottle. Beaujolais Nouveau is young and unpredictable and not usually a food wine. Beaujolais-Villages, however, is wine that is fairly consistent, comfortable with food, and priced under $15.

Regional cuisine includes Coq au Vin,”chicken with wine,” cooked with mushrooms, bacon and herbs and an excellent choice for Beaujolais-Villages. Other regional dishes that would pair well with this wine include rabbit dishes and locally made sausages and charcuterie.

Closer to home, the medium-bodied Beaujolais-Villages is a good match for pot pies, grilled cheese sandwiches, and bacon. The wine’s acid and tannins balance the fat in these foods, for instance the pie crust and gravy and the gooey cheese. Chicken and bacon are not heavy meats like steak and venison, so they will not overpower the wine. Even macaroni and cheese, with or without ham or hot dogs, is a good match for this wine. In addition, Beaujolais-Village is also appropriate to serve with the upcoming St. Patrick’s Day favorite, corned beef and cabbage.  

This wine could be paired with chicken, beef, or vegetable stews and soups. Spicier stews like chili need a fuller-bodied red to stand up to the flavors and textures. Comfort foods like meatloaf and mashed potatoes, pot roast, and cassoulet would also overpower Beaujolais-Villages. Better choices for pairing might include Zinfandel, Syrah or red Bordeaux. 

While eating a regular diet of comfort foods with or without wine could not be considered healthy, more studies have shown that sipping a glass of red wine with heavy foods actually aids digestion, helps protect the body from arterial damage, and lowers bad cholesterol.

There is more winter weather coming, so when macaroni and cheese sounds like the perfect dinner while listening to the wind and snow plows, open a bottle of Beaujolais-Villages to make it even better.

Wine Pick of the Week: June 28, 2016

Famiglia Pasqua Passione e Sentimento Bianco 2014 (Italy)

We are in the thick of summer, and Italian wine is HOT--Pinot Grigio, Verdicchio, Prosecco. Many are reasonably priced and hit the spot with a little bite and bright flavors. Like this one...

What a nice summer sipper. Think “hot day” and drink this to refresh. It’s Famiglia Pasqua Passione e Sentimento Bianco 2014.

The grape, Garganega, is one of Italy’s oldest—dating to 500 AD—versatile, and most popular varietals. It can produce dry wines or sweet if holding the grapes for a late harvest.

This Bianco has a tangy nose with honey right away. The honey is very apparent upon tasting, followed by citrus and a little grapefruit; it goes slightly dry, then with a faint hint of almonds, finishes with a little lingering citrus. The wine is tangy and not too light-bodied, but lighter than a traditional Chardonnay. This is a "crowd pleaser" that is sweet enough and dry enough to hold everyone's attention.

It has complexity to stand on its own and, served thoroughly chilled, would be welcome poolside, at a picnic or on a deck for a hot afternoon treat. With food, serve with grilled chicken and Dijon mustard; baked apple desserts; plain cheesecake with almonds or lemon; jack cheese or something mild like brie or mild cheddar. 

Wine Pick of the Week: March 16, 2016

Young Sommer Winery Lemberger NV (New York)

Young Sommer Winery is a working fruit farm in Williamson, NY, along the Lake Ontario Wine Trail. Their Lemberger is a pretty versatile wine that’s good for a cool evening sipper and paired with foods.

Lemberger’s traditional and official name is Blaufrankisch, or “blue Frankish (a variety of German grape.)” The first record of the grape’s use was in the mid-1800s. However, researchers believe it was most likely grown in Germany as early as the Middle Ages and is native to that region. Today it’s grown throughout the world and, in the United States, in Washington, New York and Ohio.  

The nose on this bottle is cherry and some oak, then a wisp of tobacco. Taste is fruit-forward cherry to an almost buttery feel. It transitions to the tobacco and hint of leather, then plum and a dry finish.

Pair this with corned beef, Italian sausage, charcuterie, and, as we did at a wine dinner, with a hearty minestrone.  

Wine Pick of the Week: February 25, 2016

Louis Laurent 2014 Rose D'Anjou

I like roses as a rule and am always up for trying new ones. French roses are especially versatile and food friendly. This Laurent is from France’s western Loire Valley.

The nose starts with strawberries, and I get a whiff of spice (cinnamon.) This is Cabernet Franc, and the first taste is a little tart, but there are the strawberries, then pear to white peach, a little cinnamon that finishes to a taste of hazelnut. It’s really quite nice and is off-sweet with a light, dry finish.

I would pair this with pork (barbequed or grilled, chops or roast;) charcuterie; salmon, especially with a fruit salsa; creamy plain cheesecake.