Earth Day: How to Read Eco-Wine Labels (It's not just about "organic")

(This article was published in the April/May issue of The WEDGE Newspaper. Check out the rest of the paper online by clicking here)

Many consumers are settling into healthier everyday food choices. Grocery stores and farmers markets have obliged this trend by carrying organic products. Likewise, more wine shops are offering organic options. Knowing the terminology and some background is helpful when reading the labels.

Organic is actually a stringent farming system that reduces or eliminates chemicals and man-made additives. The certification process is time consuming and expensive for farmers, so it takes real dedication and commitment to ecology and health.

While many European producers have been farming organically for centuries, wineries in the United States have taken greater interest in these traditional methods during the last three decades. To be labeled organic, the grapes must be organically grown and processed at a certified organic winery, and no sulfites may be added as preservatives. Wine may still contain naturally produced sulfites as a by-product of fermentation. Because of reduced sulfites, however, these wines do not store as well and should be drunk within a couple of days of opening.

Phrases and terms on labels include:

  • 100% Organic: Everything touching the wine from the seeds to the final bottling must be organic.
  • Made with Organic Grapes: A limited amount of sulfur dioxide (sulfites) may be added to certified organic grapes processed at a certified organic winery.
  • EU Organic: Similar to the USDA Certified Organic designation, but for European organically grown grapes, only organic additives allowed, non-GMO, and a slightly higher sulfite allowance than the US.
  • Sulfites: Occur naturally during fermentation and act as a preservative in the bottle.  A small percentage of people are allergic, but a greater number are “sensitive” and experience headaches or stuffiness while breathing when exposed to them.

Though many wineries today use organic farming practices and processes, most opt not to go through the certification process. Finger Lakes winery Four Chimney Winery was the first certified organic winery in North America, established in 1980. Here are a few other eco-conscious wine producers to try from the Finger Lakes and Niagara regions: Silver Thread (organic;) Red Tail Ridge Winery (sustainable, first certified LEED gold winery;) Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard (sustainable, no herbicides or chemical fertilizers;) Arrowhead Springs Vineyards (sustainable.)

Nelson Habecker, of East Avenue Liquor, has a selection predominantly from a California distributor that sells exclusively organics. What should customers know about organic wines?

“Organic wines contain no detectable sulfites,” says Habecker. “Some people are sensitive to sulfites, so an organic wine is usually a more pleasant selection for them.”

These terms may also appear on wine labels, and various regions throughout the world have their own “stamps” verifying sustainability and practices.

  • Salmon Safe: A certification indicating a vineyard or winery that plants trees along streams, plants cover crops to control run-off and uses natural pest and weed control in order to protect or restore salmon habitats. This designation is found particularly on wine labels from Pacific Northwest wineries.  
  • Biodynamic: Based on the work of Austrian scientist, philosopher and mystic Rudolf Steiner, this is an entirely holistic approach to agriculture. The farm is treated as its own eco-system where everything is internal and nurtures the whole, striving for balance. For example, compost is mixed in the soil, enhancing the crops, which feed the animals that create more manure, etc. In addition, crops are planted and fertilized in accordance with seasons and moon phases, working with the earth’s natural rhythms. Look for the “Demeter” insignia on biodynamic products.
  • Sustainable: Eco-conscious farming where the intent and practice moves toward the organic, but with the freedom to use chemicals or conventional procedures if needed. It is generally unregulated, but there are certification programs that may appear on labels. These include SIP (Sustainable in Practice;) Certified California Sustainable; Environmental Management System; LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology.)

A closer look at wine labels can enhance a healthy lifestyle. Check with local wine merchants for their selections and recommendations.

Article and all photos by Glynis Valenti