A Wine for Comfort Foods

It has been way too long since I've written for this site. There has been much going on, and I'm embarking on some new adventures, too--including a new "wine club!" I am currently writing a wine column for Rochester South Wedge newspaper, The WEDGE. Since its circulation is local, I'll post articles here. The paper is available online, though, at www.swpc.org. 

The calendar says "March," but the temperatures are in the teens, and there is a winter storm warning in effect for Tuesday and Wednesday this week. Still plenty of time for hot soups, mac and cheese, meatloaf, and other comfort favorites. If you are looking for an all-around everyday, easy-going, "comfortable" wine, keep reading.

First, there are no culinary police ticketing for having white wine with spaghetti and meatballs, but thoughtful wine and food combinations can complement favorable flavors and elevate the dining experience even if it’s served on TV trays after work.

Rochester winters mean comfort food—usually “stick-to-your-ribs” dishes, served hot, with an element of nostalgia that brings back fond memories or makes one feel better. Perennial favorites include chicken soup, pot pies, meatloaf and mashed potatoes, stews, macaroni and cheese, corned beef with cabbage, and grilled cheese sandwiches. One red wine pairs well with several of these dishes and is inexpensive enough to drink with everyday fare: Beaujolais- Villages.

Many people, thanks to good marketing in the 1980s, associate Beaujolais with Beaujolais Nouveau, a light-bodied, fruity wine drunk within a few weeks of harvest that kicks off the holiday season. However, Beaujolais, a region in eastern France south of Burgundy, west of the Cotes du Rhone, and north of the city of Lyon has been producing a wider range of better quality wines for centuries.

Around 98 percent of grapes planted in Beaujolais are Gamay noir. Research indicates that this Gamay—because there are many different varieties planted throughout the world--is probably a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais, an ancient grape the Romans brought to the area 2000 years ago. The Romans were the first to cultivate vineyards here, and during the Middle Ages Benedictine monks tended the vines.

Wines created with this dark red grape are fruit forward with low to moderate acidity and moderate tannins. Red berries are present on the nose, and flavors include tart cherry, raspberry, and cranberry, but also, depending on what area of the Beaujolais region the grapes are grown, there may be flavors of violet, earth, or smoke. It should be served slightly chilled, around 57 degrees, and drunk within two to three years of bottling.  

There are Cru Beaujolais wines that are fuller-bodied and have individual characteristics stemming from terroir. These can be difficult to find and more expensive, upwards of $20 per bottle. Beaujolais Nouveau is young and unpredictable and not usually a food wine. Beaujolais-Villages, however, is wine that is fairly consistent, comfortable with food, and priced under $15.

Regional cuisine includes Coq au Vin,”chicken with wine,” cooked with mushrooms, bacon and herbs and an excellent choice for Beaujolais-Villages. Other regional dishes that would pair well with this wine include rabbit dishes and locally made sausages and charcuterie.

Closer to home, the medium-bodied Beaujolais-Villages is a good match for pot pies, grilled cheese sandwiches, and bacon. The wine’s acid and tannins balance the fat in these foods, for instance the pie crust and gravy and the gooey cheese. Chicken and bacon are not heavy meats like steak and venison, so they will not overpower the wine. Even macaroni and cheese, with or without ham or hot dogs, is a good match for this wine. In addition, Beaujolais-Village is also appropriate to serve with the upcoming St. Patrick’s Day favorite, corned beef and cabbage.  

This wine could be paired with chicken, beef, or vegetable stews and soups. Spicier stews like chili need a fuller-bodied red to stand up to the flavors and textures. Comfort foods like meatloaf and mashed potatoes, pot roast, and cassoulet would also overpower Beaujolais-Villages. Better choices for pairing might include Zinfandel, Syrah or red Bordeaux. 

While eating a regular diet of comfort foods with or without wine could not be considered healthy, more studies have shown that sipping a glass of red wine with heavy foods actually aids digestion, helps protect the body from arterial damage, and lowers bad cholesterol.

There is more winter weather coming, so when macaroni and cheese sounds like the perfect dinner while listening to the wind and snow plows, open a bottle of Beaujolais-Villages to make it even better.

Wine Pick of the Week: February 25, 2016

Louis Laurent 2014 Rose D'Anjou

I like roses as a rule and am always up for trying new ones. French roses are especially versatile and food friendly. This Laurent is from France’s western Loire Valley.

The nose starts with strawberries, and I get a whiff of spice (cinnamon.) This is Cabernet Franc, and the first taste is a little tart, but there are the strawberries, then pear to white peach, a little cinnamon that finishes to a taste of hazelnut. It’s really quite nice and is off-sweet with a light, dry finish.

I would pair this with pork (barbequed or grilled, chops or roast;) charcuterie; salmon, especially with a fruit salsa; creamy plain cheesecake.   

Wine Pick of the Week: January 21, 2016

Maison Duhard Baron des Chartrons 2012 Bordeaux (France)

When it comes to value—and who doesn’t need a little break in January?—look for Bordeaux blends. There are many around the $10-12 mark that have characteristics of the larger houses and are good, solid reds for casual dinners and winter fare.  

The Maison Duhard Baron des Chartrons 2012 Bordeaux (Saint-Emilion) is a dark, dark ruby blend of 60 percent Merlot and 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a fruity nose with blackberry and leather.

I get the blackberry and a slight taste of cherry at first. It’s a little dry with some heat/spice, then flavors of tobacco and coffee. There’s a little earth in the middle somewhere, too. It makes me think of a library or den or the French countryside on a blustery evening.

This bottle is not a complex Bordeaux, which makes it a good choice for casual fare: burgers, stew, and, yes, grilled cheese. When I tasted this with my grilled cheese sandwich the spice came forward, as did the cherry and blackberry. It’s warm going down, and the tannins cut through the fattiness of the cheese, smoothing everything out. Try it with a burger with bleu cheese and mushrooms. Cab is a classic pairing with bleu cheese, and the mushrooms will bring out some of the spice and earth.

Hungry for grilled cheese?  Check out the “Soul” page here for this month’s “Comfort Food” series. 

Wine Pick of the Week: December 30, 2015

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Brut Rose NV(France)

This is a lovely way to end the year. The beautiful pale salmon color of this sparkler comes from soft pressing hand-picked Pinot Noir grapes and leaving the skins on briefly—and this is 100 percent Pinot Noir. The Albrecht family of Alsace has been making wine since 1425 and was instrumental in the evolution of cremant.

 I get a light scent of strawberries at the very first, then fresh baked bread. Strawberry comes through right away at first taste, too, and transitions to tangy citrus and lemon. This is not a sweet wine, nor dry. The finish is soft and more off-dry with a hint of minerals. It’s refreshing, and the bubbles make it tingle.

It’s also under $20, which is reasonable for a quality French sparkling wine. I know that it’s available at Malcho’s Wine & Spirits on Empire Blvd. in the Rochester, NY area.

This would be beautiful with a strawberry in the glass. Pair it with a strawberry or raspberry swirl cheesecake, mild cheeses like brie with a raspberry glaze or Port Salut, and charcuterie that isn’t too spicy.  

Thank you for your support of ArtSoulWine.com this year, and best wishes for 2016! 

Wine Pick of the Week: December 23, 2015

Delmas Cuvee Berlene Brut 2007 Blanquette de Limoux (France)

This week’s sparkler is one for Champagne lovers. Historically, this region (Blanquette de Limoux AOC) in the Languedoc produced sparkling wine in what is known today as Methode Champenoise a century before Dom Perignon came on the scene.

The Delmas is silky, elegant, and every bit as good as Champagne, but costs under $20. A client of mine who had worked for Domaine Chandon (Napa) told me about it and purchased it from me regularly for her gallery. She also liked the fact—as do I—that this wine is made with certified organic grapes, and the winery has a sustainable practices certification.  

My bottle, a 2007, has held up well after a couple of household moves and is a pale gold color. It’s an 80/20 percent blend of Mauzac and Chardonnay. The nose has a slight toast scent, then some caramel apple. Served icy cold, you get crisp green apple and a bit of lemon/citrus. It transitions to a taste of Champagne-like fresh bread and finishes clean with a tingle.

Pair with a creamy brie with toasted walnuts or almonds, parmesan, or a very mild bleu cheese; crème brulee; vanilla, sugar or almond cookies. 

Wine Pick of the Week: May 31, 2015

Domaine Houchart Cotes de Provence 2014 Rose  (France)

While in upstate New York this weekend, I visited Ryan’s Wines & Spirits in Canandaigua and picked up this little rose on sale for $11.99/bottle. It’s a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mourvedre. The nose starts with some faint strawberries and a touch of vanilla. Like many French roses, it’s off-dry and not too sweet. Tart flavors begin with minerals, develop to strawberries and progress to a hint of lemon.

This would be a nice porch sipper, but would also pair with spring mix salad greens, a light chicken salad and crudités. 

Wine Pick of the Week: May 17,2015

2006 Pouilly-Fume Domaine Masson-Blondelet Les Angelots (France)

I decided to get reacquainted with Pouilly-Fume this week. I’ve had this for awhile, and apparently stored it properly because it’s drinking very well.  The nose is flowers, flowers, and the characteristic hint of smoke/gun flint. There is a slight tartness, maybe a little lemon, nice full body. You can taste the flint, too.

It was like sunshine in a glass—or sunflowers in a glass. It’s 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc and was produced by the Romans 2000 years ago and Benedictine Monks in the Middle Ages.

Pair this with heavier fish like cod, grilled salmon, grilled tuna, roasted chicken, and goat cheese.