Pairing Wine with Fall Flavors

This article was published in The WEDGE Newspaper, October/November 2017. 

Fall conjures up shorter days, cooler temps, and comfort food. Flavors transition from light and fresh salads, chicken, and berries to savory spices, baked pies, and buttery squashes. Remarkably, some of the summer’s favorite wines transition well into this season. Here are some popular tastes of fall and the wines that will give them more dimension.

Apples are synonymous with autumn and range from crisp and tart to sweet and juicy. Enter Chardonnay, a wine that has been vilified because of its popularity two decades ago. It’s incredibly versatile, though, and has its own range of flavors from tropical and citrus to buttery. Chardonnay is a French grape that produces white Burgundy and Champagne—two very different wines. People who don’t like the traditional oak and butter style of Burgundy have choices in varying degrees.

Naked, or unoaked, Chardonnay can be as crisp as fresh apples and often have a hint of apple flavor. Try unoaked from California, Oregon, or Washington for more of the apple coming through. Those from Australia and Chile may have more of the pineapple, citrus, and peach flavors.

Serving baked apples with cinnamon? Butternut squash with apples and maple syrup? Or apple dumplings with vanilla ice cream? A buttery Chardonnay with oak would be an excellent match, for instance Bread and Butter, Kendall Jackson, and Franciscan from California. Lightly-oaked Chards are also available from Chateau Ste. Michelle, Sonoma-Cutrer, and Rutherford Ranch.

Chardonnay sparkling wines, i.e. Champagne and Blanc de Blancs, will be drier and pair well with many apple dishes, as well as cheeses.

When it comes to squash, there is a range of wine choices, depending on the squash and how it’s served. A buttery Chardonnay would work with butternut squash, but, because of its ginger, floral, and herbal qualities, Gewurztraminer may be what you’re seeking.

This white wine originated in Germany, but more is grown in France and the United States, including in New York state, than in Germany now.  The nose generally has a distinctive rose-but-sweeter aroma, or lychee fruit. They may have a sweeter taste, but are low in acid and sugar, with flavors or aromas of red grapefruit, honey, pineapple, apricot, and spices. A dry or off-dry Gewurztraminer can enhance zucchini with herbs or balance spaghetti squash with chunky marinara sauce.

Earthy mushrooms in soups and stews and Thanksgiving dressings are complemented by the slight earthiness and cherry or tobacco notes of a Pinot Noir. Generally medium-bodied, Pinot Noir is drinkable all year, but is a nice transition from light, summery wines to the heavier Cabernet Sauvignons and Zinfandels of winter.  The wine also pairs well with foods like roast pork, wild rice with mushrooms, and dishes with truffles. 

France is the leading producer of Pinot Noir, most notably in the Burgundy region, the home of some of the most expensive wines in the world. The French style has more of the earthy aromas, floral qualities, and cherries considered the classic red Burgundy. In the United States, California and Oregon are the major Pinot Noir producers, though New York wineries are also working with this tricky varietal. Oregon Pinots are closer to the French style in part because of the cooler climate, typically with flavors of cherries, truffles, and tobacco, spice or leather. California Pinots are more fruit forward with flavors of cherries, raspberries, spice, and caramel.

One of fall’s most popular flavors of late is pumpkin spice. This flavor is made up of several other flavors combined: usually pumpkin, cinnamon, ginger, and allspice. As it happens, all of the wines noted above would pair with pumpkin spice, depending on the dish. If the food is prevalent with pumpkin, a buttery Chardonnay would be a good option. If ginger is strong, an oaked Chardonnay or a Gewurztraminer may work well. Gewurztraminer, Champagne, or Pinot Noir will pair nicely with dishes where cinnamon or allspice come through.

If planning a special dinner, do a trial run with a couple bottles of wine to see which works better with the dish. If unsure, the wine shop should have some suggestions based on the types of wine that you normally drink.  

Article and all photos by Glynis Valenti

Earth Day: How to Read Eco-Wine Labels (It's not just about "organic")

(This article was published in the April/May issue of The WEDGE Newspaper. Check out the rest of the paper online by clicking here)

Many consumers are settling into healthier everyday food choices. Grocery stores and farmers markets have obliged this trend by carrying organic products. Likewise, more wine shops are offering organic options. Knowing the terminology and some background is helpful when reading the labels.

Organic is actually a stringent farming system that reduces or eliminates chemicals and man-made additives. The certification process is time consuming and expensive for farmers, so it takes real dedication and commitment to ecology and health.

While many European producers have been farming organically for centuries, wineries in the United States have taken greater interest in these traditional methods during the last three decades. To be labeled organic, the grapes must be organically grown and processed at a certified organic winery, and no sulfites may be added as preservatives. Wine may still contain naturally produced sulfites as a by-product of fermentation. Because of reduced sulfites, however, these wines do not store as well and should be drunk within a couple of days of opening.

Phrases and terms on labels include:

• 100% Organic: Everything touching the wine from the seeds to the final bottling must be organic.
• Made with Organic Grapes: A limited amount of sulfur dioxide (sulfites) may be added to certified organic grapes processed at a certified organic winery.
• EU Organic: Similar to the USDA Certified Organic designation, but for European organically grown grapes, only organic additives allowed, non-GMO, and a slightly higher sulfite allowance than the US.
• Sulfites: Occur naturally during fermentation and act as a preservative in the bottle.  A small percentage of people are allergic, but a greater number are “sensitive” and experience headaches or stuffiness while breathing when exposed to them.

Though many wineries today use organic farming practices and processes, most opt not to go through the certification process. Finger Lakes winery Four Chimney Winery was the first certified organic winery in North America, established in 1980. Here are a few other eco-conscious wine producers to try from the Finger Lakes and Niagara regions: Silver Thread (organic;) Red Tail Ridge Winery (sustainable, first certified LEED gold winery;) Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard (sustainable, no herbicides or chemical fertilizers;) Arrowhead Springs Vineyards (sustainable.)

Nelson Habecker, of East Avenue Liquor, has a selection predominantly from a California distributor that sells exclusively organics. What should customers know about organic wines?

“Organic wines contain no detectable sulfites,” says Habecker. “Some people are sensitive to sulfites, so an organic wine is usually a more pleasant selection for them.”

These terms may also appear on wine labels, and various regions throughout the world have their own “stamps” verifying sustainability and practices.

• Salmon Safe: A certification indicating a vineyard or winery that plants trees along streams, plants cover crops to control run-off and uses natural pest and weed control in order to protect or restore salmon habitats. This designation is found particularly on wine labels from Pacific Northwest wineries.  
• Biodynamic: Based on the work of Austrian scientist, philosopher and mystic Rudolf Steiner, this is an entirely holistic approach to agriculture. The farm is treated as its own eco-system where everything is internal and nurtures the whole, striving for balance. For example, compost is mixed in the soil, enhancing the crops, which feed the animals that create more manure, etc. In addition, crops are planted and fertilized in accordance with seasons and moon phases, working with the earth’s natural rhythms. Look for the “Demeter” insignia on biodynamic products.
• Sustainable: Eco-conscious farming where the intent and practice moves toward the organic, but with the freedom to use chemicals or conventional procedures if needed. It is generally unregulated, but there are certification programs that may appear on labels. These include SIP (Sustainable in Practice;) Certified California Sustainable; Environmental Management System; LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology.)

A closer look at wine labels can enhance a healthy lifestyle. Check with local wine merchants for their selections and recommendations.

Article and all photos by Glynis Valenti

A Wine for Comfort Foods

It has been way too long since I've written for this site. There has been much going on, and I'm embarking on some new adventures, too--including a new "wine club!" I am currently writing a wine column for Rochester South Wedge newspaper, The WEDGE. Since its circulation is local, I'll post articles here. The paper is available online, though, at www.swpc.org. 

The calendar says "March," but the temperatures are in the teens, and there is a winter storm warning in effect for Tuesday and Wednesday this week. Still plenty of time for hot soups, mac and cheese, meatloaf, and other comfort favorites. If you are looking for an all-around everyday, easy-going, "comfortable" wine, keep reading.

First, there are no culinary police ticketing for having white wine with spaghetti and meatballs, but thoughtful wine and food combinations can complement favorable flavors and elevate the dining experience even if it’s served on TV trays after work.

Rochester winters mean comfort food—usually “stick-to-your-ribs” dishes, served hot, with an element of nostalgia that brings back fond memories or makes one feel better. Perennial favorites include chicken soup, pot pies, meatloaf and mashed potatoes, stews, macaroni and cheese, corned beef with cabbage, and grilled cheese sandwiches. One red wine pairs well with several of these dishes and is inexpensive enough to drink with everyday fare: Beaujolais- Villages.

Many people, thanks to good marketing in the 1980s, associate Beaujolais with Beaujolais Nouveau, a light-bodied, fruity wine drunk within a few weeks of harvest that kicks off the holiday season. However, Beaujolais, a region in eastern France south of Burgundy, west of the Cotes du Rhone, and north of the city of Lyon has been producing a wider range of better quality wines for centuries.

Around 98 percent of grapes planted in Beaujolais are Gamay noir. Research indicates that this Gamay—because there are many different varieties planted throughout the world--is probably a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais, an ancient grape the Romans brought to the area 2000 years ago. The Romans were the first to cultivate vineyards here, and during the Middle Ages Benedictine monks tended the vines.

Wines created with this dark red grape are fruit forward with low to moderate acidity and moderate tannins. Red berries are present on the nose, and flavors include tart cherry, raspberry, and cranberry, but also, depending on what area of the Beaujolais region the grapes are grown, there may be flavors of violet, earth, or smoke. It should be served slightly chilled, around 57 degrees, and drunk within two to three years of bottling.  

There are Cru Beaujolais wines that are fuller-bodied and have individual characteristics stemming from terroir. These can be difficult to find and more expensive, upwards of $20 per bottle. Beaujolais Nouveau is young and unpredictable and not usually a food wine. Beaujolais-Villages, however, is wine that is fairly consistent, comfortable with food, and priced under $15.

Regional cuisine includes Coq au Vin,”chicken with wine,” cooked with mushrooms, bacon and herbs and an excellent choice for Beaujolais-Villages. Other regional dishes that would pair well with this wine include rabbit dishes and locally made sausages and charcuterie.

Closer to home, the medium-bodied Beaujolais-Villages is a good match for pot pies, grilled cheese sandwiches, and bacon. The wine’s acid and tannins balance the fat in these foods, for instance the pie crust and gravy and the gooey cheese. Chicken and bacon are not heavy meats like steak and venison, so they will not overpower the wine. Even macaroni and cheese, with or without ham or hot dogs, is a good match for this wine. In addition, Beaujolais-Village is also appropriate to serve with the upcoming St. Patrick’s Day favorite, corned beef and cabbage.  

This wine could be paired with chicken, beef, or vegetable stews and soups. Spicier stews like chili need a fuller-bodied red to stand up to the flavors and textures. Comfort foods like meatloaf and mashed potatoes, pot roast, and cassoulet would also overpower Beaujolais-Villages. Better choices for pairing might include Zinfandel, Syrah or red Bordeaux. 

While eating a regular diet of comfort foods with or without wine could not be considered healthy, more studies have shown that sipping a glass of red wine with heavy foods actually aids digestion, helps protect the body from arterial damage, and lowers bad cholesterol.

There is more winter weather coming, so when macaroni and cheese sounds like the perfect dinner while listening to the wind and snow plows, open a bottle of Beaujolais-Villages to make it even better.