Wine Pick of the Week: January 7, 2016

Lakewood Vineyards 2014 Port (NY)

This month I’ll be pairing the weekly wines with comfort foods, but what comes to mind as a “comfort wine?” Imagine a cold night with the wind howling outside. It’s probably snowing, but inside, settled in front of the fireplace, you pour from a bottle on the side table and sip the warm, sweet taste of port.

The Douro region of Portugal is the third oldest Designated Area of Origin in the world (mid-1700s) and is where Port, the wine, originated. Once British sailors discovered it and brought it back to England, its popularity spread because it held up so well on long journeys. And it tasted good.

Port is my go-to winter weather wine. Its high alcohol content gives you warmth through your system without the harshness of harder stuff—it’s a warm and fuzzy wine. There are many different types of Port, depending on how long it’s aged, where it’s aged, or whether it’s fortified (adding brandy or other liquor.)  

Lakewood Vineyards, in New York’s Finger Lakes, has a nice offering. The 2014 Port is a blend of estate grown Baco Noir (77.5%,) Frontenac (17%,) and Vincent (5.5%.) This one is fortified with grape brandy, also made with estate grown grapes.  

The nose is cherries that move to a blackberry/blueberry aroma. Cherries come to the palate first, too, then there’s a little spice—umm, some black pepper—transitioning to plums and raspberries. The finish is just dry enough to be noticeable. It’s warm, of course, with 18% alcohol content and legs on the glass. It coats the mouth, too, to savor.

Pair this with dark chocolate, but not too sweet. Nuts and bleu cheese would be better. Also raspberries with a plain, again, not to sweet cheesecake.  

Wine Pick of the Week: April 12, 2015

Deaver Vineyards Barby Port NV (California)

After an odd but productive weekend, I decided to treat myself. Even though it’s 70 degrees and sunny right now, this sweet, heady California Port was calling out to me as I vacuumed the cellar. Deaver Vineyards is an uber-friendly winery in Amador County on the Steiner Rd. trail. This 100 percent Barbera Port-style wine was on the tasting list the day I visited.

Raisins everywhere, sweet and warm. With some alcohol in the nose and mouth, its legs saunter down the glass. It’s warm in the throat with the faintest spice.

I decided to have a taste with triple cream brie, and it neutralized the alcohol and kept the raisin flavors. With some top round beef pastrami, it neutralized the alcohol and brought out a little black pepper with the raisins. I also tried the Barby with Milano hard salami. This was good, too, but kept a little of the alcohol with the raisins, then finished with caramel. Overall, my preference would be the pastrami pairing.

Other food matches might include a stronger cheese like Pecorino Romano, other Italian sausages, grilled pork and a caramel dessert or crème brulee. 

Wine Pick of the Week: Feb. 8, 2015

NV Terra Cotta Vineyards Hummingbird Port (Ohio)

The rich ruby color prefaces the full cherry flavors and warm, Port feeling. Made from Frontenac grapes, a University of Minnesota hybrid released in 1996, the cherry on the front is followed by a slight reminiscence of leather and a plum finish. This wine is for sipping with hard salami and blue cheeses, walnuts or pecans, cherry or berry desserts, and milk or dark chocolate--making it a perfect after-dinner wine to enjoy with a Valentine next to a fireplace. There should really be a fireplace.