Feature Article: Paso Robles

Above: Paso Robles actually experiences two types of climates. One is dictated by the hot, dry weather of the high California desert. The other is more “Mediterranean,” influenced by the Pacific Ocean 25 miles to the west.  In general, the area only gets about 14 inches of precipitation annually.

Before Nicholas Longworth planted the vines along the Ohio River that would make Ohio the top wine producer during the nation’s first century, Franciscan monks were planting grape vines in an area of California called El Paso de Robles (The Pass of the Oaks.) Their first vineyards in the late 1700s also predated Napa Valley’s to the north, now world-class wine country. 

For some reason Paso got a slow start in the wine industry, not cultivating on a commercial scale until 1882, and it was Andrew York, from Indiana, who got the ball rolling then by turning his apple orchards into vineyards. This original commercial winery is now York Mountain Winery. By this time Ohio’s wine business had flourished and died after the Civil War took over the labor force, disease destroyed much of the wine crop and murmurs of temperance grew louder. Some of Napa’s well-known names had established successful vineyards by the end of the 1870s: Krug, Schramsberg, Beringer and Inglenook. It may be that Paso’s enterprises focused on other assets—like sulphur springs.

The Salinan Indians inhabited the Paso region for thousands of years and called it “The Springs.” The area was part of the Mexican land grant called Rancho Paso de Robles, which included the Camino Real. The aforementioned Franciscan monks had also built baths utilizing the springs. The land, more than 25,000 acres, was purchased in 1857 by Daniel and James Blackburn for $8,000, and they developed the springs further as a rest stop for travelers.

The first hotel featuring a bath house with hot springs was constructed in 1864, and people from neighboring states, the Pacific Northwest and the south came to Paso for “the waters.” Drury James, the third partner with the Blackburns, was outlaw Jesse James’ uncle. Jesse James stayed with his uncle for a time and used a local cave as a hideout when the law came looking for him. That cave is located on what is now Peachy Canyon Winery. 

Twenty-two years after the original hotel was built, Paso Robles became a new stop on the Southern Pacific Railroad. Leaders platted an actual town and held a land auction. A new hotel with a golf course and other amenities catered to wealthier visitors seeking hot springs treatments. In 1914 a renowned pianist, Ignace Paderewski, received springs treatments for arthritis at the hotel and was able to resume his concerts. More notable visitors followed over the next three decades: President Theodore Roosevelt, members of the Hearst family, actors (Clark Gable, Douglas Fairbanks and Bob Hope among others) and sports teams like the Pittsburgh Pirates.

At the beginning of the 20th century, more families settled in the area and planted grapes, primarily Zinfandel and Petit Syrah, of which some vines are still producing today. One of those settlers was Paderewski the pianist/composer, whose award-winning wines help establish the area’s credibility and reputation. Today there are more than 250 wineries in the 614,000 acres of the Paso Robles AVA (American Viticultural Area) growing 25 varieties of grapes. This area is known mainly for its reds, with 39 percent of the grapes Cabernet Sauvignon; 14 percent Merlot; 9 percent Syrah; 8 percent Zinfandel; 16 percent are Petit Sirah, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Petit Verdot and other reds. Paso Robles was named Wine Enthusiast magazine’s “Wine Region of the Year” for 2013. 

Three wineries this writer visited have different histories and environments, but all are focused on producing quality wines.

Sextant Wines farms 486 acres of vines in the Paso Robles (114 acres,) Edna Valley and San Lucas AVAs in California. Owners Craig and Nancy Stoller established Sextant in 2004. Stoller’s family owns a nursery that specializes in importing and growing European grape vines to supply to growers here. He decided to try harvesting and making use of the grapes that grew on the stock vines, which led to developing his own winery, now producing 30,000 cases per year.

The Sextant label produces mostly reds but also make Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc and Albarino. The red selection includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, GSM (a Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre) and a Marselan (a French grape of Cabernet Sauvignon crossed with Grenache.) Their wines receive regular praise from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator.

The “stand-out” wines from the tasting included the 2012 Marselan, which was earthy and reminded this writer of a red Burgundy-style wine; the 2010 Caverio GSM, which was Grenache-based, spicy and was soft enough to be food-friendly; the 2010 Passage GSM, with rich, complex flavors ranging from blackberry to peppery spice.  

Above: DAOU Vineyards produces hand-crafted, premium wines in classic French style. 

DAOU Vineyards is the dream of two brothers, Daniel and Georges, who were raised in France, went to college in California and developed one of the top five IPOs in the United States. When they sold their tech company, they purchased 100 acres at an elevation of 2,200 feet in Paso Robles to pursue their passion for fine wines. The production is smaller and very hands-on. The brothers select specific clones rare in California and plant them closer together but prune them to yield a smaller number of clusters per vine. All grapes are hand-picked and sorted, creating about one-half a regular yield, but highest quality fruit. In addition, the farm is certified “Sustainable in Practice,” meaning that while they are not entirely organic, the farming methods and processes are environmentally friendly and efficient. 

DAOU does not press the grapes, but macerates them with the skins for up to three weeks in order to break down tannins and allow the structure and flavors to develop. This “free run” process is highly unusual, with the goal being to create classic, elegant wines that can be cellared and developed over many years.

Two of the wines on the tasting menu that day included a 2012 DAOU Pinot Noir (100 percent free run,) which was fuller-bodied than other Pinots with heavier cherry and wood flavors; and the 2011 DAOU Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (100 percent free run,) which was a classic Cab with dark fruits and currants and a touch of spicy wood.

Above: Many of the 250 wineries in the Paso Robles AVA began as family farms and have preferred to stay hands-on in crafting and perfecting boutique, lower-production wines.  

Proulx Wines is housed on family-owned Willow Creek Farm that has been producing grapes for 60 years. Third-generation grower Genoa Riley and husband Kevin Riley began crushing the farm’s grapes for themselves in 2004 and the 2011 Red Label Zinfandel recently made #38 on the “Wine Enthusiast” Top 100 Wine List. The name Proulx (pronounced “proo”) is Kevin Riley’s maternal grandmother’s name.

Because of the drought affecting the region for several years, Proulx practices dry farming, capturing and making optimum use of the little precipitation available. This has affected their yield somewhat, especially the Cabernet Sauvignon, and this year the Zinfandel. But the dry heat makes the fruit that is harvested concentrated and potent.

Their tasting menu includes a couple of very nice roses. The 2013 Grenache Rose White Label is clean and fresh, and the 2013 Resistance Rose also has a fresh, hint-of-strawberry-and-spice taste and is not as sweet. Both are food friendly. The other notable tasting wine was the 2012 Red Label Zinfandel, a true, hearty Zin with plum and woody spice. 

All three wineries ship to Ohio—not every winery does—but there are a few Paso wines available locally. Some of the mainstream brands include Peachy Canyon, Paso Creek and Wild Horse. This writer picked up Vinum Cellars Red Dirt Red GSM (Casa di Vino in Wheeling) and Purple Cowboy Tenacious Red (Kroger’s St. Clairsville) and tasted the Tenacious Red. It’s a rich and hearty Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend, not dry, with tastes of blackberries and a hint of tobacco. The Syrah provides the dark purple color and just a slight touch of heat, and it would pair well with a beef or venison stew, grilled ribs or pork barbeque.